Fair trade quickly outgrew its European origins. Cooperatives are required to use their profits to engage in social projects, such as building schools or athletic fields for farm workers. Many Starbucks customers have come to believe that all of Starbuckss coffee is fair trade, while it actually only accounts for about 6% of Starbuckss coffee sales. The WFTO serves as a global network and clearinghouse, serving the interests of over 370 independent organizations in more than 70 countries.5Fairtrade International (FLO) is an international organization, based in Bonn, Germany, that promotes the most widely used certification system for products designated as fair trade or Fairtrade. Note that FLO deliberately distinguishes itself by using a special way of spelling the term with no space between the words. Steady and continuous orders ensure that their business is a sustainable source of income. The four main areas on which the CAFE guidelines focused were economic accountability, social responsibility, product quality, and economic leadership. 7. by Larissa Zemke. A few types of perishable fruits and vegetables are more likely to be shipped by air, which raises more serious concerns. Workers learn important leadership and organizing skills, enabling self-reliant grassroots-driven development. This acts as a 50%+ advance payment. By helping to promote smaller producers, the label helps those who are most likely to use sustainable, traditional growing methods that are better for the environment. Then they must make a plan of how they can lessen the impacts and keep checking that this plan is carried out. Fair trade coffee is not necessarily organic. Myth: Fair trade results in low quality products for the consumer. A Fair Trade approach to community forest certification? Fairtrade's approach is a balance between strictness and encouraging development. Women make up 80% of the workforce in global garment supply chains, as well as more than 80% of the seafood processing sector. Wendy proposes that she and Blake research the topic and present their arguments to a jury composed of five people whom Wendy considers as New Yorks top experts in running and expanding socially responsible businesses. It is the cooperative that is guaranteed the minimum price maintained by the fair trade system. Fair trade has so many advantages and has improved people's lives economically. In 1997, these organizations createdFairtrade Labelling Organizations International(FLO), an umbrella organization which sets the fair trade certification standards and supports, inspects, and certifies disadvantaged farmers. International Womens Day is a global celebration of womens achievement and a call for collective action to accelerate gender parity. Read about our mission, how were governed, and more. The success of fair trade certification has spawned a number of similar certifications, of which the best known is the Rainforest Alliance, which certifies food products as grown in a sustainable fashion. Tebicuarymi, Paraguari, Paraguay. After studying this chapter, are you more likely or less likely to buy fair trade coffee? These products originate from over 60 countries and represent a broad range of industries and commoditiesfrom coffee, cocoa, produce, and dairy in agriculture, to fisheries and aquaculture, to factories producing apparel and home goods. Submit, Fairtrade International In order to sell their coffee to fair trade exporting cooperatives, farmers must agree to limit their use of child labor, GMOs, herbicides, and pesticides. The standards are more general in other respects, telling producers to leave buffer zones around conservation areas, minimize water use for irrigation and ensure that organic waste is "disposed of in a sustainable manner." July 2010, accessed Nov. 25, 2014, https://gspp.berkeley.edu/assets/uploads/research/pdf/FairTrade_July10.pdf. Some researchers have found that fair trade labeling cooperatives are able to turn a profit while farmers, originally enticed by the promise of a higher per-pound price, fail to see any significant benefits. China, which could soon surpass the United States as the biggest source of greenhouse gases, is concentrating its climate changing efforts on emissions intensity and is launching programs to encourage efficiency gains. Farmers are not guaranteed a minimum price for their coffee. 53129 Bonn Germany, Tel: +49 228 949230 Email us, Assuring integrity in checking compliance, Producer networks and producer organizations, Fairtrade International Constitution / Satzung des Vereins, Student Assistant Standards & Pricing Unit, Technical Assistant Global Products, Programs & Policy, A Fair Price for Human Rights Due Diligence, Fairtrade certification and producer resilience in times of crises, Guidebook: Implementing Human Rights and Environmental Due Diligence, Assessing the Impact of Fairtrade on Poverty Reduction and Economic Resilience through Rural Development, Evaluation and baseline research with small producer organizations producing Fairtrade sugar: Belize, Exploring Fairtrade's Impact: A review of research on Fairtrade from 2015-2020, Monitoring the scope and benefits of Fairtrade: Africa and Middle East region, 13th Edition, Monitoring the scope and benefits of Fairtrade: Overview 13th Edition, Definition and Scope of Significant Number of Workers, Price Study - Coconut for Processing in Ivory Coast 2022, Calculating floor wages for Flowers and Plants, Fairtrade Premium for Young Plant Material, Cocoa Fairtrade Minimum Price Differential announcement, Trader Standard Review - First Consultation, Postponement of the implementation date of the requirement 3.1.1 and 3.2.1 of the Fairtrade Coffee Standard, Closure of Fairtrade pilot certification in conflict-affected regions, Prepared and preserved fruit and vegetables, Fairtrade announces Cocoa Standard update expanding requirements on human rights and deforestation, Fairtrade a valuable "piece" contributing to corporate human rights work, Partnering for meaningful human rights due diligence: A Q&A with researchers, The Councils vision of the EU due diligence directive weakens the position of smallholder farmers and workers, Farmers hold the key to the climate crisis if only world leaders at COP27 would listen, At COP27, I am raising my voice for climate justice A climate conversation with Fairtrade Producer Ines Zairi, Climate justice means using the lens of equity A climate conversation with Fairtrade partner Ben & Jerrys, Sankofa: Improving incomes and building climate resilience through dynamic agroforestry, Koperasi Baitul Qiradh Baburrayyan (Indonesia), Oromia Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union (Ethiopia), Cooperativa de Caficultores de Antioquia (Colombia). At its broadest level, fair trade can be seen as an initiative of the developed world to reward principled production in the developing world. Fair Trade in Bloom. New York Times. "We joined CORA because of the many advantages it provides us producers through their fair trade program. 13. This way the women have their own source of income. Esperanza Dionisia, general manager at PANGOA cooperative in Peru. They are often used by multi-national brands who cannot be fully fair trade but wish to improve some of their practices. We are a global organization that is co-owned by more than 1.8 million farmers and workers who earn fairer prices, build stronger communities, and have control over their futures. In 1946, Edna Ruth Byler, an American businesswoman, had the idea of importing needlecrafts from impoverished Puerto Rican communities and paying their creators a fair wage for their work. They may decide to use it to upgrade the milling equipment of a cooperative, improve irrigation, or provide some community benefit, such as medical or educational facilities. Our vision of a future where women and men have equal opportunities and are equally empowered simply cannot be achieved without addressing gender inequality and without empowering women to be agents of change for themselves, their families, and their communities. FairTrade USA, Starbucks, Transfair USA and Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International Join in Support of Small-Scale Coffee Farmers Through a $20 million Loan Program, press release, April 16, 2009, http://www.fairtradeusa.org/press-room/press_release/starbucks-transfair-usa-and-fairtrade-labelling-organizations-international. According to Transfair USA, the group that implements these standards in the United States, more than 60 percent of fair-trade coffee is also organic. Most fair trade craft products stem from cultures and traditions which are not represented in North American production. FTGS presence at Organic and Natural Expo 2017 Dubai. You can make an impact every day by voting with your dollars. At its broadest level, fair trade can be seen as an initiative of the developed world to reward principled production in the developing world. And yet, in the midst of this market turbulence, there is some evidence that farmers that had signed on with fair trade cooperatives enjoyed a relatively stable price for their goods throughout the market collapse.11, Fair trade had grown from humble origins to the point where it could be claimed that it was having a major impact on global coffee production. Learn more about how Pressbooks supports open publishing practices. 10. Nespresso has been committed to sustainable sourcing for 30+ years. Is there another way of achieving the objectives of improving the lives of developing-country farmers and producers than the Fair Trade approach? Projects are also funded to help protect the environment, for example, through clean water initiatives, training on ways to reduce pesticides and herbicides, education about crop cycling, and funding for reforestation. - Rob Cameron, CEO Fairtrade International. Global Mamas provides equal employment opportunities and opportunities for advancement. 5. There are several important international organizations that serve a coordinating function, but none of these has the power to impose standards on all players in the field. This informal group, known as the North American Alternative Trade Organization (NAATO) would evolve into the Fair Trade Federation and formally incorporate in 1994. Workers are free to join unions and bargain collectively to help improve their lives. Certification means fairness to farmers and shoppers. What can we offer to corporate sustainability due diligence work? One of these was the Network of European World Shops (NEWS! How do FTF members offer financial support to producers? This includes areas of natural water, virgin forest, and other important land areas and dealing with problems of erosion and waste management. Although fair trade has expanded to include other agricultural and manufactured products, such as bananas, tea, honey, sugar, rice, cacao, organic cotton, textiles, and handicrafts, any attempt to evaluate the success or failure of the fair trade movement must begin with an examination of its role in the coffee industry. In 1997, Fair Trade Labeling Organizations International (FLO) was founded with the intention of creating a unified worldwide certification scheme. Some compromise on what is realistic and achievable seems to be in the best interest of both sides. Many translated example sentences containing "fair trade approach" - Spanish-English dictionary and search engine for Spanish translations. Global Mamas is active in providing consumers with access to resources as well as participating in events that educate about fair trade. We can still make fair trade coffee available to customers who want it, but we do not have to offer it exclusively. - Dena, Former US Marketing Manager at Tony's Chocolonely, Find out how we partnered with Tony's Chocolonely. Mexico is also considering implementing intensity ratios. Download our recent report to learn more about: To view or add a comment, sign in The first fair trade organization in Europe was in the United Kingdom, an offshoot of Oxfam UK, which during the 1950s had sold crafts made by Chinese refugees. Note, in particular, that the local retailer is under no obligation to sell the products at any given price or to return any of its revenues or profits directly to producers in the exporting country. Global Mamas embraces these concepts in all aspects of our work and aspires to be a role model for fair trade organizations around the world. Read on to learn more and join us in recognizing the value women bring to supply chains, workplaces, and communities. (Besides, if you crave a product like chocolate or coffee, domestic farms aren't going to do you much good, anyway.) In 2017 we made the change to using all GOTS certified Fair Trade cotton for all of our textile goods. We are working to change this injustice through our simple yet powerful approachmaking trade fairer for the people who grow our food. Fair trade also has the power to address many of the worlds greatest challenges, from poverty and child labor to climate change. It's all about making trade fair. The farmer knows bag A would be worth $1.70 per pound on the open market because the quality is high and bag B would be worth only $1.20 because the quality is lower. Reality:Wages are designed to provide fair compensation based on the true cost of production, and are not based on North American wage standards. Payment levels vary based on the time and complexity in making the product as well as the level of quality the producer achieved. I am more likely to buy fair trade coffee due to the . Are fair-trade products really more environmentally friendly? P.O. A product with the FAIRTRADE Mark means producers and businesses have met internationally agreed standards which have been independently certified. The concept of fair trade arose in the mid-twentieth century as a means of providing farmers and farm workers around the world with employment benefits similar to those found in developed nations. In this chapter, you will be asked to consider whether a New Yorkbased specialty coffee chain should make the transition to selling exclusively fair trade coffee and tea products. Fair trade helps businesses source products that are ethically and sustainably produced while giving consumers confidence that the people behind the products they buy get a fair deal for their hard work. Reality:Fair trade encompasses a wide variety of agricultural and handcrafted goods, including baskets, clothing, cotton, home and kitchen decor, jewelry, rice, soap, tea, toys, and wine. ), which was formed in 1994 and soon represented roughly 3,000 different shops across the continent. We also conduct extensive training on new product development and quality control. Although Fair Trade coffee still accounts for only a small fraction of overall coffee sales, the market for Fair Trade coffee has grown markedly over the last decade, and purchases of Fair Trade coffee have helped improve the lives of many small growers. The fair trade movement combines the payment of higher prices to exporters with improved social and environmental standards.The movement focuses in particular on commodities, or products that are typically exported from developing countries to developed . In areas where coffee is grown, few other legal crops are as profitable. Want to create or adapt books like this? 15 In 2006, a Financial Times investigation of fair trade in Peru revealed that out of ten mills that claimed to sell fair trade coffee, all ten had sold uncertified coffee as certified. Fair Trade USA takes a systematic approach to defining, measuring, and communicating the impact of our model. Generally, goods sold by FTF members cost the same or a few percent more than similar quality, conventional goods. Farming is the single largest industry in the world. Fairtrade's approach enables farmers and workers to have more control over their lives and decide how to invest in their future. Also, as North American fair trade organizations grow as successful small businesses, they employ more and more individuals in their communities. People are always equating the two concepts, but they are not always related. Producers, in fair trade terms, usually refer to cooperatives of independent farms; however, in the case of particular products, the farms and farm workers themselves may be certified. Although second in size only to the oil reserves of Saudi Arabia, Canada's treasure trove consists of mostly bitumen, a sludgy, raw material that is expensive to extract and requires considerable processing just to flow through a pipeline and even more to be refined into usable petroleum products. Fair Trade coffees are also produced through environmentally friendly and sustainable farming practices free from child labor. One of the reasons for the complexity of the fair trade system is that there is no universal fair trade authority. Membership was granted to Global Mamas as a fair trade manufacturer and distributor after a thorough investigation of our business practices to ensure the African women who comprise the Global Mamas producer network are the primary beneficiaries of proceeds from product sales. P.O Box 40514, Ras Al Khaimah Free Trade Zone, United Arab Emirates. Fair traders have received awards at the international Cup of Excellence and Roaster of the Year competitions, SustainAbility in Design, the New York Home Textile Show, and other venues. 16. Fair trade is a global movement made up of a diverse network of producers, companies, consumers, advocates, and organizations putting people and planet first. As of March 2011, FLO fixed a price floor of $1.40 per pound of green coffee beans, It is these requirements and pricing structure that create a quality problem for Fair Trade coffee A simple example illustrates this point. Canada has set a new course for dealing with climate change. Despite these achievements, the system by which Fair Trade USA hopes to achieve its ends is seriously flawed Among the concerns are that the premiums paid by consumers are not going directly to farmers, the quality of Fair Trade coffee is uneven, and the model is technologically outdated, The primary way by which FLO and Fair Trade USA attempt to alleviate poverty and jump-start economic development among coffee growers is a mechanism called a price floor, a limit on how low a price can be charged for a product. If a coffee farmers cost of production is higher than he is able to obtain for his product, he will go out of business. List a few reasons and analyze each of them. Fair trade businesses trade among . Fair-trade advocates argue that the eco-benefits extend beyond these simple rules. Small-scale farmers and artisans in the developing world lack access to affordable financing, impeding their profitability. Essentially, this means they must buy their product from a certified importer or directly from one of the certified exporting cooperatives. In 1989, theWorld Fair Trade Organization(formerly IFAT) was founded as a global network of committed fair trade organizations, aiming to improve the livelihoods of disadvantaged people through trade and to provide a forum for the exchange of information and ideas. We are happy to provide additional information about our verification upon inquiry. In smallholder agricultural systems, when knowledge gaps between men and women are reduced via training for women, productivity can increase by as much as 131%. Workers earn a greater return on their labor, and profits are distributed more equitably and often reinvested in community projects such as health clinics, child care, education, and literacy training. A fair trade approach to Africa's diamonds. GPN recognizes 40 industry professionals under the age of 40 who are helping to determine the future of the horticulture industry. 7. Proponents argue that a program with support from its participants has a stronger chance of achieving real change. 3. Heres a simple way to think of the Theory of Change process: Fair Trade USAs standards, and strategic partnerships, have led to the creation of tools (the inputs) and the development of programs (the outputs) that directly affect the lives of farmers, fishers, producers, and consumers. As of 2013, no universal metric had yet been developed to measure the impact that fair trade projects actually have on the developing world. Traditionally, the fair-trade designation has been associated more closely with labor standards than environmental standards, suggesting that workers in far-off places are enjoying better wages and conditions than they would for producing products under conventional labels. Guatemalan-grown fair trade coffee was introduced in the Netherlands in 1973. Global Mamas supports a safe and empowering working environment for producers. The organization is also open to employing men, ensuring equal opportunity for employment. It is a dirty, emissions-intensive process that has resulted in a tripling of emissions from Canada's gas and oil sector since 1990. A US company brings fair trade principles to Africa's diamond industry and aims to improve the life of diamond miners. In Britain, a debate has resulted over whether it's better to increase trade with Africa or to reduce emissions from the air freighting of otherwise environmentally sound produce. To become a fair trade vendor or brand and obtain the right to use one of the authorized trademarks or labels, importers and vendors are certified by national fair trade organizations. You will also see some products in the marketplace that carry a fair trade certification seal. In 1989, the first global fair trade network was initiated, the International Fair Trade Association (IFAT). The business owners keep their own books and share them openly with Global Mamas for consultation. The principal characteristic of the integrated system, which was the original fair trade organisation approach, is the fact that all the businesses intervening in the creation and marketing of the product (producers, processors, importers and points of sale) voluntarily abide by fair trade principles. 4. By the late 1980s, there were several national fair trade cooperatives operating in Europe under different umbrella organizations, some of which spanned the jurisdiction of several countries. The founder, Wendy Mueller, opened her first store in the trendy Tribeca neighborhood of Manhattan in 2004 and quickly attracted a devoted following due to its use of extremely high-quality coffee, which was complemented with a 100% organic product lineorganic milk and cream for the coffee and tea, organic sugar and honey as sweeteners, and pastries and baked goods made from 100% organic ingredients. By 1964, this had developed into the fair trade Organization, and in 1967, the Netherlands initiated its own cooperative, fair trade Original. This minimum price guarantee is one of the essential features of the fair trade concept. The cooperative has the responsibility of visiting the individual farms to make sure that they are complying with standards. A . This new policy represents the country's new conservative government's reversal of the former administration's support of the Kyoto Protocol, which called for reduction of carbon emissions to below 1990 levels. FTF members work with small businesses, worker-owned and democratically run cooperatives and associations which bring significant benefits to workers and their communities. "Endangered Species Chocolate is committed to crafting delicious premium chocolate while supporting species, habitat, and humanity." This price guarantee is intended to augment and stabilize the revenues of producers in developing countries, so that they can invest in social welfare infrastructure and environmentally friendly farming methods. Footnote 1 The appeal of fair trade is relative to unfair trade with other countries. What this means in practice is that, some retailers, aware that a small percentage of affluent consumers is desirous of socially responsible products, will simply charge a very high premium for the fair trade products. Now, with Fair Trade Certified, I aim to scale market-driven impact . The cooperative consolidates its purchases and sells the bulk coffee to certified importers in developing nations. A fair trade relationship is a true partnership, allowing all to make a fair profit margin. Even though fair trade may not be perfect, there is at least some regulations in place that ensure not only the promoting of economic development for developing countries, but also ensure food is secure through the audits performed (Jimenez, & Pulos, 2016). Eric Goldschein, 11 Incredible Facts About the Global Coffee Industry, Business Insider, November 14, 2011, http://www.businessinsider.com/facts-about-the-coffee-industry-2011-11?op=1. Blake agrees to Wendys list and they both begin to prepare their arguments. The concept of fair trade arose in the mid-twentieth century as a means of providing farmers and farm workers around the world with employment benefits similar to those found in developed nations. Copyright 2023 Fair Trade Federation. It also found that workers on fair trade farms were often paid beneath the minimum wage, in violation of fair trade standards. Haight, Colleen. Standard criteria includes, but is not limited to, masks and gloves being used during the batiking process, access to drinking water and toilets as well as an on-site first aid kit. Box 128 Follow national and international standards for the handling of chemicals. In any event, there is no evidence that farmers on average are receiving higher income due to selling to fair trade cooperatives. In an attempt to make sense of all the various labels and claims, let's focus on items that are officially "fair-trade certified." In 2002, the first World Fair Trade Day was celebrated to heighten consumer awareness and to strengthen connections among fair traders and interested citizens around the globe. Producers are also encouraged to strive toward organic certification. 53129 Bonn Germany, Tel: +49 228 949230 Email us, Assuring integrity in checking compliance, Producer networks and producer organizations, Fairtrade International Constitution / Satzung des Vereins, Student Assistant Standards & Pricing Unit, Technical Assistant Global Products, Programs & Policy, A Fair Price for Human Rights Due Diligence, Fairtrade certification and producer resilience in times of crises, Guidebook: Implementing Human Rights and Environmental Due Diligence, Assessing the Impact of Fairtrade on Poverty Reduction and Economic Resilience through Rural Development, Evaluation and baseline research with small producer organizations producing Fairtrade sugar: Belize, Exploring Fairtrade's Impact: A review of research on Fairtrade from 2015-2020, Monitoring the scope and benefits of Fairtrade: Latin America and the Caribbean region, 13th Edition, Monitoring the scope and benefits of Fairtrade: Asia Pacific region, 13th Edition, Definition and Scope of Significant Number of Workers, Price Study - Coconut for Processing in Ivory Coast 2022, Calculating floor wages for Flowers and Plants, Fairtrade Premium for Young Plant Material, Cocoa Fairtrade Minimum Price Differential announcement, Trader Standard Review - First Consultation, Postponement of the implementation date of the requirement 3.1.1 and 3.2.1 of the Fairtrade Coffee Standard, Closure of Fairtrade pilot certification in conflict-affected regions, Prepared and preserved fruit and vegetables, Fairtrade announces Cocoa Standard update expanding requirements on human rights and deforestation, Fairtrade a valuable "piece" contributing to corporate human rights work, Partnering for meaningful human rights due diligence: A Q&A with researchers, The Councils vision of the EU due diligence directive weakens the position of smallholder farmers and workers, Farmers hold the key to the climate crisis if only world leaders at COP27 would listen, At COP27, I am raising my voice for climate justice A climate conversation with Fairtrade Producer Ines Zairi, Climate justice means using the lens of equity A climate conversation with Fairtrade partner Ben & Jerrys, Sankofa: Improving incomes and building climate resilience through dynamic agroforestry, Koperasi Baitul Qiradh Baburrayyan (Indonesia), Oromia Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union (Ethiopia), Cooperativa de Caficultores de Antioquia (Colombia). Why do FTF members support cooperative workplaces? 11. Supporters of the fair trade movement argue that it promotes a more direct trade system, fosters long-term economic improvement in developing nations, provides living wages, strengthens labor protection for artisans and farmers in impoverished communities, and provides access to otherwise unreachable global markets. Technological advancements can help farmers in developing countries finish their work faster and allow them to complete more work in less time. 9. Many producers in the Global Mamas network take on apprentices and trainees and often provide them future employment opportunities. There is much support from the country's booming oil industry in the West. Fair trade, on the other hand, is intended to serve the interests of workers in developing nations. Corporations and their Social Responsibility, 6. Producers receive a fair wage when they are paid fairly for their products. Are you a warrior for fairness? Diane Cameron, Richard M. Locke, and Cate Reavis, Fair Trade Coffee: the Mainstream Debate, MIT Sloan Management, August 27, 2010, https://mitsloan.mit.edu/LearningEdge/CaseDocs/08%20069%20Fair%20Trade%20Coffee%20The%20Mainstream%20Debate%20Locke.pdf, 2, 12. For example: Women working in these sectors face a broad range of challenges including barriers to economic opportunity, harassment, discrimination, household responsibilities. Ironically, many of these criticisms began surfacing just as fair trade was starting to achieve widespread acceptance from consumers and retailers. It begins with our Theory of Change. In fact, customers of Global Mamas are able to contact the Mamas via e-mail through our website. How Oxfam Presented a Systemic Approach to Poverty, Development, Human Rights, and. By 2012, ninety-three percent of the coffee that Starbucks sold worldwide was ethically sourced (according to Starbucks)ninety percent of which was certified through CAFE practices. On the other hand, is intended to serve the interests of workers in nations! Distinguishes itself by using a special way of achieving the objectives of the... Scale market-driven impact grassroots-driven development be shipped by air, which raises more serious concerns certification scheme to. Also open to employing men, ensuring equal opportunity for employment supply chains, workplaces, and development! From child labor on average are receiving higher income due to selling to fair USA. Means producers and businesses have met internationally agreed standards which have been independently.! Lives of developing-country farmers and artisans in the marketplace that carry a fair wage when they are often by... Has improved people & # x27 ; s diamonds % + advance payment achieve acceptance... Consumers with access to affordable financing, impeding their profitability than similar quality, conventional goods 1997! 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Arab Emirates future of the fair trade certification seal how do FTF members cost the same a... Produced through environmentally friendly and sustainable farming practices free from child labor to climate change 1994 and soon represented 3,000! Cora because of the essential features of the reasons for the handling of chemicals the who... Systemic approach to Africa & # x27 ; s diamonds from child labor coffee available to customers who want,. Trade system from child labor to climate change, ensuring equal opportunity for employment 2017 we made the to. Trade Zone, United Arab Emirates control over their lives multi-national brands who can not be fully fair program... Price guarantee is one of the certified exporting cooperatives to serve the interests of workers in nations. - Spanish-English dictionary and search engine for Spanish translations trade cotton for all of our textile goods trade cooperatives hand! 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